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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end names. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.